You spend a lot of time lifting weights so you can look great naked. Problem is, unless you're named Tarzan, Diggler, or Phelps, you probably expose less skin on a day-to-day basis than the First Lady. So if you really want to make an impression you have to spend as much time thinking about what covers your body as you do about what builds it. Otherwise, all those squats mean squat. Here's how to look good when your Speedo's in the washer.
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1) Go custom
A suit's drop, or difference between chest and waist size, averages 7 inches. But a guy who lifts may sport a 44-inch chest and a 32-inch waist-and that's a problem since the selection of these athletic-cut suits is usually scant. "For guys with a 12- to 14-inch drop, you almost have to go custom-made," says top menswear designer Joseph Abboud, who dresses althetes such as Jeremy Shockey, Stephon Marbury, and Nomar Garciaparra. But if you're worried that "custom" is code for "take out a loan," fear not. A one-off suit, whether from a custom tailor or made-to-measure in a department store, can cost the same or even less than a ready-to-wear model.

2) Stay loose
A proper fit starts in the shoulders and chest. Don't go too snug, Abboud cautions: The cut should trace and define your body, and never restrict your movement. "When clothes get too tight, that's dangerous," he says. "It becomes unnatural looking, like you've pumped yourself out of them."

3) Choose sturdy material
Good tailoring can be wasted on flimsy and lightweight fabrics like TK, says Anthony Giliberto, vice president of Giliberto Designs, a New York City custom-tailoring shop specializing in athletic builds. "The body of the fabric has to stand up to these guys' bodies." Giliberto has made suits for hulking WWE wrestlers Brock Lesner and JBL, as well as ex-NBA All-Star Larry Johnson (who ordered 80 suits a year). The good news: Technological advances in fabrics means that durable ones don't have to be heavy and uncomfortable. Choose ones like TK and TK.

4) Keep patterns and colors simple
Pick straightforward navy or gray, and narrow stripes. Mini-checks and houndstooth fabrics can highlight your build even more-which will actually work against you. "You want to take away the busyness from a big guy," Giliberto says. "Plaids and windowpane checks make him look even bigger-he ends up looking like a giant checkerboard." Abboud says, "Save the flash for sportswear. The old saying is, 'You don't want to see the suit walk into the room before the man.'"

5) Stick to a minimal style
You've seen the ex-pro athlete TV sports announcer in his 5-button, high-lapel suit? Resist it like you would the No. 6 at the drive-thru. "A lot of guys make the mistake of getting tricky when custom-tailoring," Abboud says. "The tailor should suggest not only the fit but the styling, too." Double-breasted suits tend to look awkward on athletic men, so stick with single-breasted. Two or three buttons on the jacket? Your choice. A well-fitted 3-button can work, but Giliberto thinks 2-button suits look better on guys who are big up top, since the top button on a 3-button can restrict the chest.


For the rest of this article, order the Spring 2005 issue of Men’s Health Muscle by clicking here.